Active ingredients are at the heart of modern skincare – but also an area where regulation and science are constantly changing. The European Union has recently adopted new rules for the use of retinol and its derivatives in cosmetics.
Retinol (a derivative of vitamin A) is widely used in skincare for its antioxidant, regenerating and anti-aging effects (improvement of skin texture, reduction of fine wrinkles, unification of tone). However, it is also associated with some risks such as skin irritation, increased sensitivity to the sun, systemic exposure to vitamin A. And it is for this reason that the European Commission adopted new regulations in April 2024. The SCCS states in its opinions that the use of vitamin A in cosmetic products is safe up to certain levels, but at higher exposure (including from food/supplements) there is a risk of exceeding the recommended daily intake. Brands will therefore have to reformulate products containing higher concentrations of retinol or derivatives if they want to be legally on the EU market after the given deadlines.
New EU retinol regulation
What exactly does the regulation say:
Derivatives such as retinol, retinyl acetate and retinyl palmitate have been included in “Annex III” of the cosmetic regulation as substances with restricted use.
The maximum concentrations (“Retinol Equivalent”, RE) are set as follows:
In body lotions: max. 0.05% RE.
In other leave-on products (e.g. face creams, serums) and rinse-off: max. 0.3% RE.
Effective dates: from 1. 11. 2025, products that do not meet these limits may not be placed on the market; from 1. 5. 2027, they may no longer be available.
How to use retinol in practice – tips for your routine
If you use retinol: pay attention to sun protection (retinol increases sensitivity to UV) and intensive hydration of the skin barrier.
Start below: for example, 1-2 times a week in the evening, not daily, especially if you have more sensitive skin.
Have a “barrier-friendly” day and night care in your routine: protect the skin, moisturize and support regeneration.
If you are pregnant or breastfeeding — many dermatologists recommend limiting or omitting retinol, or consulting a dermatologist, or using safe alternatives
Watch the composition: some products may also contain stabilized forms of vitamin A or combinations of active ingredients that change the effect.
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Alternatives to retinol
There are several active ingredients or approaches that can be a good alternative solution for skin that tolerates retinol less well, wants to skip it, or is looking for a “clean-organics” option.
Bakuchiol
It is a plant extract (e.g. from babchi carob) and is often referred to as “plant-retinol”. Clinical and formula studies suggest that bakuchiol may have effects similar to retinol (improvement of fine lines, texture, tone) with less risk of irritation. It is suitable for sensitive skin, can also be used in the morning, does not cause sun sensitivity. It is contained in our Magical Phyto Elixir for the eye area.
Peptides, amino acids and collagen-supporting substances
Peptides support the production of collagen and elastin, which helps with skin aging. They are very well tolerated, suitable for a routine where you want active but gentle skin support. The best combination is with moisturizing and protective ingredients (ceramides, squalane, phospholipids). Try our Hello Beautiful collagen serum with peptides, for example.